Himalaya Safety Treks
Mount Lhotse Expedition 8,516 m -
20
/Days
Mount Lhotse Expedition 8,516 m
The 50-Day Mount Lhotse Expedition (8,516 m / 27,940 ft) is an iconic high-altitude climbing pursuit situated directly adjacent to Mount Everest. Connected to Everest via the 7,986 m South Col, Lhotse is the fourth highest peak in the world and renowned for its sheer southern wall and dramatic summit couloir. The route follows the classic Everest South Col trail from Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) through the dynamic Khumbu Icefall, the expansive glacial basin of the Western Cwm, and the blue ice wall of the sheer Lhotse Face. Branching right from Camp 3 (7,300 m), climbers enter the narrow, steep Lhotse Couloir (500 meters of sustained 45° to 55° mixed ice and firm snow). Supported by a strict 1:1 Climbing Sherpa ratio, continuous fixed ropes, advanced Summit/Poisk oxygen systems, and high-altitude weather telemetry, this expedition delivers an extraordinary 8,000-meter mountaineering triumph.
Availability
Includes
What's Included
- Official Nepal Government Department of Tourism 8,000 m Mount Lhotse Climbing Royalty Permit
- Sagarmatha National Park Permit and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Municipality Permit
- SPCC Khumbu Icefall route fixing fee and ladder maintenance contribution
- Government-appointed official expedition Liaison Officer with logistics and daily allowance
- 1:1 ratio dedicated elite high-altitude Climbing Sherpa guide (Multiple Lhotse/Everest summits)
- 6 oxygen cylinders per climber (Poisk / Summit Oxygen) + 3 cylinders for climbing Sherpa with latest masks and regulators
- Full base camp outfitting: Individual geodesic sleeping tent with mattress, heated dining dome, hot shower/toilet tents, solar power stations, and high-speed Starlink Wi-Fi
- Full high-altitude camp outfitting: The North Face / Mountain Hardwear 4-season tents, freeze-dried food, cooking stoves, and epigas at Camps 1, 2, 3, and 4
- Round-trip domestic flight tickets (Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu)
- 4 nights 5-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (Dwarika's / Marriott) with breakfast
- All teahouse accommodations and 3 daily meals during trekking approach and return
- Pack yaks and porters for transport of personal gear (up to 50 kg per climber) to/from Base Camp
- Gamow hyperbaric chamber, emergency high-altitude medical kit, pulse oximeter, and comprehensive staff insurance
What's Not Included
- International airfare and Nepal tourist visa fees
- Personal climbing equipment (8000M down suit, triple climbing boots, crampons, ice axes, harness, jumar)
- Personal travel, medical, and high-altitude emergency helicopter evacuation insurance
- Climbing Sherpa summit bonus (standard international 8000M summit bonus: $1,500–$2,000 USD)
- Personal bar bills, laundry, hot showers on trail, and gratuities for base camp crew
Itinerary
Follow our carefully planned Mount Lhotse Expedition 8,516 m itinerary, designed with proper acclimatization and comfortable trekking days throughout the journey.
Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. Meet our VIP expedition team and transfer via private luxury vehicle to your 5-star hotel (Dwarika's / Marriott). Attend an evening welcome orientation and gear check with your expedition leader.
Day 1
Attend the mandatory official expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the government liaison officer. Complete gear inspections and test Summit/Poisk oxygen regulators, masks, jumar ascenders, and 8000M triple boots with your personal climbing Sherpa.
Day 2
Board an early morning flight to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. Meet your dedicated porter and Sherpa support team. Begin walking along the Dudh Koshi riverbank past carved Buddhist Mani walls and pine forests to Phakding.
Day 3
Enter Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo and cross the iconic Hillary Suspension Bridge suspended over the confluence of the Bhote Koshi and Dudh Koshi. Ascend the sustained pine forest switchbacks to reach the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar.
Day 4
Take a scenic acclimatization morning hike up past Syangboche to Hotel Everest View (3,880 m) for your first majestic view of Lhotse, Everest, and Ama Dablam. Explore the Khumjung monastery before returning to Namche Bazaar.
Day 5
Follow the panoramic high balcony trail contouring around the valley rim. Descend to Phunki Thenga for lunch, then ascend through rhododendron forests to the spiritual crest of Tengboche Monastery. Tour the monastery and descend to Deboche.
Day 6
Cross the Imja Khola and pass beneath the north face of Ama Dablam through Pangboche village. Ascend above the tree line into alpine pastures, arriving in the stone-walled settlement of Dingboche.
Day 7
Hike up the ridge to Nangkartshang Peak (5,083 m) for high-altitude acclimatization, taking in views of Makalu (8,485 m), Lhotse, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam before descending to Dingboche.
Day 8
Trek across the alpine plateau to Dughla. Ascend the steep moraine ridge of Thokla Pass (4,830 m), pausing at the stone memorials honoring fallen mountaineers, then follow the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier to Lobuche.
Day 9
Trek across rocky glacial moraines past Gorak Shep to establish Everest/Lhotse Base Camp (5,364 m / 17,598 ft) on the active Khumbu Glacier beneath the towering amphitheater of Pumori, Nuptse, and the Khumbu Icefall.
Day 10
Expedition Lama and climbing Sherpas conduct the sacred Buddhist Puja ceremony, consecrating crampons, ice axes, and hoisting prayer flags. Conduct technical ladder crossing, jumar ascending, and safety drills on the lower ice seracs.
Day 11
31-Day Climbing & Summit Window:• Rotation 1: Ascend the Khumbu Icefall (aluminum ladders, crevasse crossings, fixed lines) to Camp 1 (6,065 m). Walk through the Western Cwm to Camp 2 (Advanced Base Camp - 6,400 m), sleep at Camp 2, and return to Base Camp to rest.• Rotation 2: Climb from Base Camp to Camp 2, then ascend the steep blue ice wall of the Lhotse Face (45°–50°) to sleep at Camp 3 (7,300 m) for deep acclimatization before descending to Base Camp.• Summit Push: Waiting for a verified multi-day weather window, advance sequentially: Base Camp → Camp 2 (6,400 m) → Camp 3 (7,300 m / begin oxygen at 2 L/min) → Camp 4 (7,800 m below the couloir / increase oxygen to 3-4 L/min).• Summit Night: Depart Camp 4 at 11:00 PM. Enter the narrow, steep Lhotse Couloir (500 meters of sustained 45°–55° snow and mixed ice). Climb between granite rock walls to top out onto the sharp summit crest. Stand on the true summit of Mount Lhotse (8,516 m / 27,940 ft) at sunrise. Savor views directly into the South Col, Mount Everest's summit pyramid, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. Safely rappel down fixed lines through the couloir back to Camp 2 and Base Camp.
Day 12
Dismantle all high camps, pack all garbage under strict SPCC environmental regulations, and organize cargo onto pack yaks. Celebrate summit success with your climbing Sherpa guide and kitchen team.
Day 13
Trek down from the Khumbu Glacier through Gorak Shep, Lobuche, and Dughla, dropping into the oxygen-rich pastures of Pheriche or Pangboche.
Day 14
Trek through Deboche and Tengboche, descending to the riverbed and climbing back up into the bustling town of Namche Bazaar. Enjoy hot showers, fresh bakeries, and celebratory toasts.
Day 15
Retrace your steps down the Hillary Bridge switchbacks and through Monjo and Phakding along the Dudh Koshi gorge to reach Lukla for a farewell dinner with the porter crew.
Day 16
Board a morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. Meet our private vehicle for transfer to your 5-star hotel. Afternoon free for massages and relaxation.
Day 17
Attend the mandatory official debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the government liaison officer to formalize summit verification, followed by a celebratory gala dinner.
Day 18
Extra buffer day for flight delays or mountain weather hold-ups. Enjoy personal sightseeing around Kathmandu's UNESCO heritage sites.
Day 19
Enjoy breakfast at your hotel before our private VIP vehicle transfers you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your international return flight home.
Day 20
Things To Know
Requires official Nepal Department of Tourism (DoT) 8,000 m Lhotse Royalty Climbing Permit, Sagarmatha National Park Permit, Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit, SPCC Icefall ladder fees, and a certified Government Liaison Officer. Climbers must have proven 7,000 m or prior 8,000 m mountaineering experience (such as Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Himlung, or Ama Dablam) and technical proficiency with jumar ascending on steep blue ice and couloir abseiling. Full 8000M down suits, triple climbing boots, and technical ice equipment are mandatory.
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