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Mount Dhaulagiri I Expedition 8,167

The 50-Day Mount Dhaulagiri I Expedition (8,167 m / 26,795 ft) represents one of the purest and most physically demanding 8,000-meter mountaineering challenges on Earth. Known as 'The White Mountain' and rising dramatically above the deep Kali Gandaki gorge in western Nepal, Dhaulagiri is celebrated for its colossal vertical relief and imposing snow and ice walls. Ascending the classic Northeast Ridge, the route navigates complex glacier icefalls, exposed snow arêtes (40° to 55°), and technical mixed rock bands through four high-altitude camps. Supported by veteran 1:1 Climbing Sherpas, extensive fixed-line protection, state-of-the-art Poisk/Summit oxygen systems, and full base camp infrastructure, this expedition is the ultimate goal for seasoned high-altitude mountaineers.

Country Dhaulagiri Himal & Myagdi, Western Nepal
Duration 50 Days
Difficulty
Activitytitle Expedition
Max. altitude
Best season Mar-May, Sep-Nov
Accommodation Tea House & Hotel
Meals Included
Start/End Point -
Long Long

Availability

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Includes

What's Included

  • Official Nepal Government Department of Tourism 8,000 m Mount Dhaulagiri Climbing Royalty Permit
  • Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) and TIMS Card
  • Government-appointed official expedition Liaison Officer with logistics and daily allowance
  • 1:1 ratio dedicated elite high-altitude Climbing Sherpa guide (Multiple 8000M summit records)
  • 6 oxygen cylinders per climber (Poisk / Summit Oxygen) + 3 cylinders for climbing Sherpa with latest masks and regulators
  • Full base camp outfitting: Individual geodesic sleeping tent with mattress, heated dining dome, hot shower/toilet tents, solar power stations, and gourmet expedition chef
  • Full high-altitude camp outfitting: The North Face / Mountain Hardwear 4-season tents, freeze-dried food, cooking stoves, and epigas at Camps 1, 2, 3, and 4
  • Domestic one-way flight ticket (Pokhara to Kathmandu) and private 4WD ground transportation
  • 4 nights 5-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu and 1 night 5-star resort in Pokhara with breakfast
  • All teahouse accommodations and 3 daily meals during trekking approach and return
  • Pack mules, yaks, and porters for transport of personal gear (up to 50 kg per climber) to/from Base Camp
  • Gamow hyperbaric chamber, emergency high-altitude medical kit, pulse oximeter, and comprehensive staff insurance

What's Not Included

  • International airfare and Nepal tourist visa fees
  • Personal climbing equipment (8000M down suit, triple climbing boots, crampons, ice axes, harness, jumar)
  • Personal travel, medical, and high-altitude emergency helicopter evacuation insurance
  • Climbing Sherpa summit bonus (standard international 8000M summit bonus: $1,500–$2,000 USD)
  • Personal bar bills, laundry, hot showers on trail, and gratuities for base camp crew

Itinerary

Follow our carefully planned Mount Dhaulagiri I Expedition 8,167 itinerary, designed with proper acclimatization and comfortable trekking days throughout the journey.

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. Meet our VIP concierge for private transfer to your 5-star hotel (Dwarika's / Marriott). Attend an evening welcome orientation and gear briefing with your expedition leadership.

Day 1
Overnight: Day 1
Note:

Attend the mandatory official expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism with the government liaison officer. Complete thorough technical gear checks, testing oxygen regulators, masks, crampons, and 8000M triple boots with your climbing Sherpa.

Day 2
Overnight: Day 2
Note:

Depart Kathmandu early morning in private 4WD vehicles along the Prithvi Highway to Pokhara. Continue westward along the Kali Gandaki valley to the bustling district town of Beni.

Day 3
Overnight: Day 3
Note:

Drive along the Myagdi Khola to Darbang, the gateway to the Dhaulagiri Circuit. Meet your porter train and begin trekking through terraced farmlands and lush subtropical hamlets to Dharapani.

Day 4
Overnight: Day 4
Note:

Ascend along steep river terraces past Takum and Sibang, taking in distant views of Dhaulagiri I and Gurja Himal. Follow stone-paved paths through Magar settlements to reach Muri.

Day 5
Overnight: Day 5
Note:

Descend to the Dhora Khola and cross the riverbank, climbing steadily through dense subtropical bamboo and oak forests past terraced fields to the small settlement of Boghara.

Day 6
Overnight: Day 6
Note:

Follow the rugged Myagdi Khola gorge through dense, uninhabited forests of bamboo and blooming rhododendron. Navigate cliffside stone steps to settle into basic lodge facilities at Dobang.

Day 7
Overnight: Day 7
Note:

Trek through dense pine and fir woods past Sallaghari, climbing steadily into the sub-alpine valley. Arrive at Italian Base Camp (3,660 m), situated directly beneath the towering West Face of Dhaulagiri.

Day 8
Overnight: Day 8
Note:

Dedicated acclimatization day. Take a morning hike up the lateral moraine to view the massive icefall tumbling off Dhaulagiri's sheer walls before resting for the glacier push.

Day 9
Overnight: Day 9
Note:

Cross the rocky moraine through the Swiss Base Camp corridor and ascend the debris-covered Chhonbardan Glacier. Arrive at Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,750 m / 15,584 ft), facing the Northeast Ridge.

Day 10
Overnight: Day 10
Note:

The expedition Lama and Sherpa team conduct the sacred Buddhist Puja ceremony, hoisting prayer flags and blessing climbing gear. Practice fixed-rope ascending, ladder crossings, and safety drills on the lower glacier.

Day 11
Overnight: Day 11
Note:

31-Day Climbing & Summit Window:Rotation 1: Ascend the lower Chhonbardan glacier icefall to Camp 1 (5,850 m). Climb the steep snow slopes and crevasses to touch Camp 2 (6,400 m), returning to Base Camp to rest.• Rotation 2: Climb past Camp 1, sleep at Camp 2, and ascend the 45° snow and ice arête to touch Camp 3 (7,200 m) on the Northeast Ridge before descending to Base Camp for full recovery.• Summit Push: Waiting for a verified multi-day weather window, advance sequentially: Base Camp → Camp 1 (5,850 m) → Camp 2 (6,400 m) → Camp 3 (7,200 m / begin oxygen at 2 L/min) → Camp 4 (7,500 m / increase oxygen to 3-4 L/min).• Summit Night: Depart Camp 4 at 10:00 PM. Ascend the steep snow and ice couloir, traversing technical mixed rock steps along the upper Northeast Ridge. Stand on the true summit of Mount Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m / 26,795 ft) at sunrise. Enjoy a 360-degree panorama of Annapurna I, Manaslu, Mustang, and the Tibetan plateau. Safely rappel down fixed lines back to Camp 2 and Base Camp.

Day 12
Overnight: Day 12
Note:

Dismantle high camps, pack all garbage under strict environmental guidelines, and organize cargo onto pack mules and porters. Celebrate summit success with your climbing Sherpa guide and kitchen crew.

Day 13
Overnight: Day 13
Note:

Climb the steep moraine ridge to cross the high alpine col of French Pass (5,360 m). Descend into the vast, glaciated lunar amphitheater of the Hidden Valley.

Day 14
Overnight: Day 14
Note:

Cross Dhampus Pass (5,244 m) with sweeping views of the Annapurna massif and Nilgiri peaks. Descend steep alpine trails into the apple orchards and stone streets of Marpha in the Kali Gandaki valley.

Day 15
Overnight: Day 15
Note:

Drive through the deep Kali Gandaki canyon past Tatopani hot springs and Beni, returning to Lakeside Pokhara. Check into your 5-star lakeside resort for hot showers and relaxation.

Day 16
Overnight: Day 16
Note:

Board a morning scenic flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu. Meet our private vehicle for transfer to your 5-star luxury hotel in Kathmandu for spa recovery and rest.

Day 17
Overnight: Day 17
Note:

Attend the mandatory official debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism to formalize summit verification, followed by a celebratory farewell banquet with company directors.

Day 18
Overnight: Day 18
Note:

Extra contingency day for flight delays or mountain weather hold-ups. Enjoy personal sightseeing around Kathmandu's UNESCO heritage sites.

Day 19
Overnight: Day 19
Note:

Enjoy breakfast at your hotel before our private VIP vehicle transfers you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your international return flight home.

Day 20
Overnight: Day 20
Note:

Things To Know

Requires an official Nepal Department of Tourism (DoT) 8,000 m Royalty Climbing Permit, Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) Permit, Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS) Card, and a certified Government Liaison Officer. Climbers must have prior 7,000 m or 8,000 m high-altitude summit experience (such as Manaslu, Himlung, Ama Dablam, or Cho Oyu). Complete 8000M down suits, triple boots, and technical ice gear are strictly mandatory.

Trip Map

Videos

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Frequently Asked Questions

Dhaulagiri rises over 7,000 meters above the Kali Gandaki valley floor over a horizontal distance of just 30 km, creating extreme local weather patterns, high winds, and steep, exposed climbing along the Northeast Ridge and upper couloirs.
Expeditions climb via the standard Northeast Ridge route, established from the Chhonbardan Glacier. The route utilizes four high camps (C1: 5,850 m, C2: 6,400 m, C3: 7,200 m, C4: 7,500 m) before ascending the upper mixed couloir to the summit crest.
Spring (April to late May) is the primary climbing season for Dhaulagiri, offering longer daylight hours and more stable high-pressure weather windows before the onset of the monsoon.

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